Eglinton Castle
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Eglinton Castle was a large mansion in Kilwinning, North Ayrshire, Scotland.
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[edit] History
[edit] The castle
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The ancient seat of the Earls of Eglinton, it is located just south of the town of Kilwinning. Built between 1797 and 1802 in Gothic castellated style dominated by a central 100-foot (30 m) large round keep and four 70-foot (21 m) outer towers, it was second only to Culzean Castle in appearance and grandeur. Eglinton was the most notable post-Adam Georgian castle in Ayrshire..[2] Amongst many items of interest, the castle contained a chair built from the oak timbers of Alloway kirk and the back of the chair was inlaid with a brass plaque which bore the whole of Burns' poem Tam o' Shanter.[3] This was sold at an auction in 1925.[4] The previous Eglington castle (sic) was described circa 1563–1566 as a fare castell, but noo strength aganists any power.[5] An escape tunnel is said to run from the old castle to the area of the rockery on the castle lawns. The appearance of the old waterfall may have inspired this story as it looks like a sealed doorway.[6] The total acreage of the Earl of Eglinton's holdings was 34,716 Scots Acres (1.5 English Acres) in 1788.[7] This included Little Cumbrae, and lands at Southannan and Eaglesham (Polnoon).
The original castle of the Eglintons may have been near Kidsneuk, Bogside (NS 309 409) where a substantial earth mound or motte stands and excavated pottery was found tentatively dating the site to the thirteenth century.[8]
[edit] Covenating times
In the 1640s Alasdair Mac Colla had been sent by Montrose to suppress support for the Covenanting cause. He plundered the Ayrshire countryside for some days and then demanded financial penalties. Neil Montgomery of Lainshaw negotiated a 4,000 merks penalty for the Eglinton Estates; three tenants having already been killed, with some deer and sheep also taken from the park.[9]
[edit] Ley tunnel
Persistent rumours exist of a tunnel which is said to from Kilwinning Abbey, under the 'Bean Yaird', below the 'Easter Chaumers' and the 'Leddy firs', and then underneath the Garnock and on to Eglinton Castle. No evidence exists for it, although it may be related to the underground burial vault of the Montgomeries which does exist under the old abbey[10]
[edit] The Pleasure gardens
The grounds of the castle were described in one record of the 1840s as follows Its princely gates soon presented themselves and we thought we should easily find our way to Irvine through the park. It was a rich treat to wander in these extensive grounds. We soon made way through a handsome avenue to the gardens. The hot-houses for fruits and flowers are on a magnificent scale, and on reaching the parterre we were delighted with the elegance which pervaded it. A glassy river with a silvery cascade came gliding gently through these fairy regions, as though conscious of the luxuriant paradise which it was watering. Nor was the classic taste wanting, nor horticultural skill, to render this a region of enchantment. Two elegant cast-iron bridges, vases, statues, a sun-dial; these pretty combinations from the world of art could not fail to please the beholder. Leaving these luxurious regions we again wandered among thick woods, and occasionally obtained glimpses of the proud castle, peering over the trees. At length we found our way to a seat beneath some noble weepers of the ash tribe, and here we had a fine view of the castle, towering majestically over the dense foliage.
Among our wanderings we passed an enormous quadrangular building, resembling some of our London hospitals. It forms the stables, and it is quite detached, at some distance from the Castle. We mistook our way, owing to the many devious paths, and wandered deeper and deeper into the recesses of this extensive domain. In passing through one long avenue, which was so dark that we were unable to see our steps; myriads of rooks took flight at our approach, and the air was quite blackened with them. At one time, we found ourselves walking alongside of the preserves, at another we were wandering in the deer park, and startling the early slumbers of these pretty creatures. At length we reached a gate, which we fully expected would lead into the high road to Irvine: but, to our great consternation, we found it was the point from which several roads diverged, each, apparently, leading into a thick forest, and it was evident that we had much space yet to traverse ere we could be clear of the extensive grounds of Eglintoun.[11]
[edit] Notable trees
The 'Fauna, Flora and Geology of the Clyde Area'[12] lists the notable Clyde Area trees at Eglinton in 1901, showing that the estate at the time had one of the foremost collection of significant trees in southern Scotland. Tree removal for sale as timber was one of the first acts of the new owners of the estate when it was sold in the late 1940s.[13]
The significant trees were :- Holly (6' 10 girth); Sycamore (13' 2 girth – Deer Park); Field Maple (6' 5 girth); Horse Chestnut (11' 4 girth); Gean (girth 11' girth – Bullock Park); Hawthorn (8' 3 girth); Fraxinus heterophylla (4' 6 – Lady Jane's Cottage); Elm (12' 7' girth – castle); Hornbeam (14' girth – between Castle & Mains); Holly Oak (5' 2 girth – gardens); Sweet Chestnut (16' girth – Bullock Park); Beech (18' 3 girth – Old Wood); Cut-leaved Beech (8' 11 girth); Larch (8' 9 girth); Cedar of Lebanon (9' 11 girth – Bullock Park); Scots Pine (11' girth – between Castle and Mains).
[edit] The Eglinton Tournament
Eglinton is best remembered for the lavish, if ill-fated Eglinton Tournament, a medieval-style tournament organised in 1839 by the 13th Earl. The expense and extent of the preparations became news across Scotland, and the railway line was even opened in advance of its official opening to ferry guests to Eglinton. Although high summer, in typical Scottish style torrential rain washed the proceedings out, despite the participants, in full period dress, gamely attempting to participate in events such as jousting. Amongst the participants was the future Napoleon III of France.
[edit] The demise of the castle
The immense cost of upkeep and the poor condition of the castle eventually took its toll on the family, so the castle was abandoned in the early years of the twentieth century. De-roofed in 1929, after a house contents sale in December 1925, and progressively ruinous, the building finally came to an undignified end during the Second World War when it was substantially destroyed during army training held there. The army also destroyed the iron bridge running to the old walled gardens and badly damaged the Tournament Bridge, which they partially rebuilt.
The 1925 house sale by Dowell's Limited, included 1,960 items auctioned, raising £7,004 19s 6d. The auction catalogue provides an interesting insight into the feelings of the family at this sad time, with much of the Montgomerie history sold off, such as the 13th Earl's suit of armour from the tournament, the panel from the door of the murdered 10th Earl's coach and many paintings of the family and the castle, including a portrait of that great beauty, Susanna Kennedy, Countess of Eglinton.[14]
Eglinton castle is said by one of the gardeners to have had a room which was never opened. In about 1925 a young man from Kilwinning decided to take some of the panelling from a room in the castle as it was all being allowed to rot in the rain anyway, the roof had been removed. He went the castle to take away as much as he could carry, however one of the last pieces he selected left exposed the skeletal hand of a woman. The whole skeleton was later removed by a student doctor, but for fear of prosecution the matter was never reported to the police.[15]
[edit] Eglinton family micro-history
In 1583 Lady Anne Montgomery brought her husband, Lord Semple a dowary of 6000 merks, a considerable sum.[16]
Lady Frances Montgomerie was buried at Hollyrood Abbey in Edinburgh on the 11 May 1797. She was the daughter of Archibald, 12th Earl of Eglinton.[17]
At the coronation of Charles I at Holyrood the Earl of Eglinton had the honour of bearing the king's spurs.[17]
Glasgow University's Eglinton Arts Fellowship was established in 1862 by subscription to commemorate the public services of Archibald William, 13th Earl of Eglinton, Rector of the University 1852–54.[18]
At the christening of King James IV the Earl of Eglinton had the honour of carrying the salt.[19]
The Potato was first heard of in Scotland in 1701; it was not popular at first. In 1733 it is however recorded as being eaten at supper by the Earl of Eglinton.[20]
Huchoun ("little Hugh") or Huchown is a poet conjectured to have been writing sometime in the 14th century. Some academics, following the Scottish antiquarian George Neilson (1858–1923), have identified him with Hugh of Eglington, and advanced his authorship of several other significant pieces of verse.
[edit] Eglinton Country Park
In the 1970s plans were made to open the extensive grounds (988 acres) around the ruins to the public, and to that end what remained of the structure was made safe by demolishing all but a wing facade and a single tower. Eglinton Country Park is now fully established and is one of the most popular visitor (free) attractions in Ayrshire.
In 1963 Ian Anstruther wrote an entertaining account of the 1839 tournament entitled The Knight and the Umbrella.
[edit] Views of Eglinton castle in 2007
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[edit] The castle and estate prior to the establishment of the country park
[edit] The intact castle – exterior
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[edit] The castle interior
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[edit] Castle ruins
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[edit] Estate features
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 <centre>Redburn gate circa 1910 |
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[edit] Derelict estate features
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 The old Wilson's waterfall. The header tank and pump are on the other side of the driveway in the Belvedere Woods. This looks like an entrance to a secret tunnel and a local legend to this effect has developed. |
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[edit] The 1930s bridge collapse and repair work
 A view across the damaged bridge |
 A view showing the partial collapse of the bridge |
 The bridge with temporary supports |
 Repair work underway, showing the shuttering for the concrete |
 The repaired bridge. Note the simple wooden handrail and the remaining exposed iron arch. |
 A view of the whole of the repaired bridge. Note the army personnel, children fishing, etc. |
[edit] The Earls of Eglinton
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[edit] See also
- Eglinton Country Park
- Eglinton Tournament of 1839
- Eglinton Tournament Bridge
- Robert Burns and the Eglinton Estate
[edit] External links
[edit] References
- ^ Dobie, James (1876). Pont's Cuninghame Pub. John Tweed.
- ^ Sanderson, Maragaret H. B. (1993), Robert Adam in Ayrshire. Ayr Arch Nat Hist Soc. Monograph No. 11. p. 18.
- ^ Aikman, J. & Gordon, W. (1839) An Account of the Tournament at Eglinton. Pub. Hugh Paton, Carver & Gilder. Edinburgh. M.DCCC.XXXIX.
- ^ Dowells Ltd. Catalogue of the Superior Furnishings, French Furniture, etc. Tuesday, 1st December 1925, and four following days.
- ^ Military Report on the Districts of Carrick, Kyle & Cunningham. Archaeological & Historical Collections relating to Ayr & Wigton. 1884. Vol. IV. Pub. Ayr & Wigton Arch Assoc. p. 23.
- ^ Barr, Allison (2008), Five Roads / Corsehillhead resident.
- ^ National Archives of Scotland. RHP35796/1-5.
- ^ Simpson, Anne Turner and Stevenson, Sylvia (1980), Historic Irvine the archaeological implications of development. Scottish Burgh Survey. Dept. Archaeology, Univ Glasgow. p. 23.
- ^ Stevenson, David (1994). Highland Warrior. Alasdair MacColla and the Civil Wars. Edinburgh : The Saltire Society. ISBN 0-85411-059-3. p. 205.
- ^ Service, page 48.
- ^ Phipps, pages 61–63.
- ^ Scott Elliot, G. F., Laurie, M. and Murdoch, J. B. (1901). Glasgow : British Association. pages 131–147.
- ^ Eglinton Archives, Eglinton Country Park.
- ^ Dowells Ltd. Catalogue of the Superior Furnishings, French Furniture, etc. Tuesday, 1st December 1925, and four following days.
- ^ Montgomeries of Eglinton, page 98.
- ^ Chambers, Robert (1885). Domestic Annals of Scotland. Edinburgh : W & R Chambers. p. 236.
- ^ a b Daniel, page 199.
- ^ Glasgow University Art's Fellowship.
- ^ Chambers, Robert (1885). Domestic Annals of Scotland. Edinburgh : W & R Chambers.
- ^ Chambers, Robert (1885). Domestic Annals of Scotland. Edinburgh : W & R Chambers. p. 404.
- ^ Harvey, William (1910), Picturesque Ayrshire. Pub. Valentine & sons, Dundee, etc. Facing p. 110.
- ^ Leighton, John M. (1850). Strath Clutha or the Beauties of the Clyde. Pub. Joseph Swan Engraver. Glasgow. Facing p. 229.
- ^ The Eglinton Tournament. Pub. Hodgson & Graves. London. 1840. p. 6.
[edit] Sources
- Phipps, Elvira Anna (1841). Memorials of Clutha or Pencillings on the Clyde. London : C. Armand.
